Minggu, 09 Februari 2014

Fashion Week day 4: Bold, boxy shapes take form at Derek Lam, DKNY and ...


DKNY (left) brought 'old school-new school,' and Diane von Furstenberg (right) used Russian reds and cobalt blues that made the collection especially vibrant.


The bigger, the better.


Judging by four days of New York Fashion Week, bold, wide shapes are taking root with designers. Sweaters are oversized, tops are big and boxy, and pants are wide-legged. Volume has been affecting silhouettes for the past year or so, particularly with coats, jackets and vests, and the trend seems to be growing.


PHOTOS: CELEBS AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FALL 2014

Nothing was bigger than Diane von Furstenberg's 40th anniversary show. Held at Spring Studios in Tribeca, it was her usual famous friend-and-family fest, but pumped up as music from St. Vincent accompanied the models. Of course, there were wrap dresses, wrap tops and wrap sweaters. This season was inspired by the Ballets Russes, so these 'ballerinas' were layered, with skinny pants under dresses and gorgeous swingy jackets and coats on top. Russian reds and cobalt blues made this collection especially vibrant, as did the finale - all models in gold dresses, showered with golden confetti.



The fashion at Derek Lam benefits from his restrained hand. His clean esthetic was also a bit blown up this season. Double-faced cashmere T-shirts were boxy, bouclé was sculpted into structural coats, and even felted skirts took on new body.


PHOTOS: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FALL 2014: DKNY

Also incorporating the sculptural look was designer Josep Font for Delpozo. Working a retro-futuristic vibe inspired by 'Logan's Run,' the pieces were created to hover next to the body, rather than hug it. If not carefully executed, this could have the clothes wearing the person, not the other way around.


Donna Karan used the old-school trick of putting real people on the catwalk for DKNY, which she claimed was 'a little of this, a lot of that, old school-new school.' True to New York street style, there was a lot of black and gray layered every which way. The fashion came in the form of oversized furry vests, fun street/sport pointy-toed shoes and bits of plaid and stripes.


PHOTOS: HERVE LEGER FALL 2014

Tracy Reese's catwalk was awash in relaxed, flowy prints that screamed comfort. Juxtaposed with herringbone plaids, tweeds and marabou trim, it was a collection that married this 'boyfriend' look perfectly.


Thakoon's fall is flower-filled, with bold prints coloring everything from puffer coats to more subtle blouses and dresses. Brights not traditionally seen in fall palettes colored the catwalk.


PHOTOS: KATE SPADE FALL 2014

Yigal Azrouel showed striking high-necked, dropped-waist dresses with swingy skirts, fuzzy mohair plaids, leather leggings and tough, military-inspired bomber jackets.


With Sheila McClear and Tracy Brock


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