Senin, 30 September 2013
Minggu, 29 September 2013
Sabtu, 28 September 2013
Jumat, 27 September 2013
Alber Elbaz's dazzling designs will be perfect for thrice-married women to stride through the world's six star hotel lobbies like metallic missiles.
BY Lisa Armstrong | 27 September 2013
The Lanvin woman has come a long way in the 11 years she's been Alber Elbaz's passenger. Certainly further than Catherine Deneuve, who arrived exceedingly late for last night's show, pleading traffic exoneration (don't worry Catherine, we've all been there and we've all used the traffic excuse).
When Elbaz first arrived at the dusty, desiccated Maison de Madame Lanvin he gave her one of the chicest makeovers of all time. Think Jackie O or maybe Mrs Robinson (as played by Anne Bancroft rather than Jerry Hall), reconfigured for Bungalow 8 - sophisticatedly naughty, but always elegantly understated.
A gazillion imitations later (including Lanvin's own collaboration with H&M) Madame clearly needed to move on. And that she has. She's still a bit naughty in her flapper pinafore dresses (calf length with nothing on beneath) and her split to the thigh floor length skirts. But there is nothing understated about this dazzling creature.
Wrapped in high shine satins and silks that ranged from silver and pewter to gold, Madame Lanvin (or to use her correct title, now that she's divorced from husband number three and has restyled herself) Ms Lanvin, strides through the world's six star hotel lobbies like a metallic missile, clutching her not so little Lanvin gathered-at-the-top-to-look-like-a-sack bag.
READ THE PARIS FASHION WEEK BLOG
It was terrifically slick, with a mesmerising side-order of the jolie-laide. There was no concession here to daywear as you and I may know it, although there were plenty of suggestions as to how Lanvin's daywear might appear back in the showroom, in less showy fabrics. Those bronze, high-waisted pleated trousers and fabulous sparkly mermaid skirts may come in crepe for instance.
Or perhaps they won't. Although there were one or two beautiful airy tweed jackets, it may be that women don't go to Lanvin for work staples, but for very special numbers that will hook them husband number four. If they slip into one of Elbaz's gorgeously executed, black, faille pencil skirts (another thigh flasher naturellement ) and wear it with one of his impeccably cut duchesse satin sheath tops, their next conquest is in the (high-shine) bag.
SEE MORE FROM PARIS FASHION WEEK
Day three of Paris Fashion Week was full of surprises. At Nina Ricci, topless protesters from Femen crashed the show to protest sexualization in the modeling industry, and at Rick Owens, the shockingly curvey models wore grimaces as they stomped across the catwalk.
PARIS - Jolts and unexpected turns marked the third day of Paris' spring-summer 2014 shows -- though some were intentional, others were not.
First, there were designer Rick Owens' unconventional models. The unrelenting fashion showman threw tradition to the wind and flew in a troupe of nearly all-black college students from the U.S. to model his ready-to-wear clothes Thursday.
With curvy bodies and wild hair the 40 energetic students modeled the looks by dance, moving in a style that crossed rapper Missy Elliott's moves with those of pom-pom bearing cheerleaders. Gone were the 6-foot (2-meter) blond and usually white beauties who fashion insiders expect to parade down the podium. Nonetheless, it had one normally sober English fashion editor nodding head and tapping his foot to the beat. Spring is, after all, a season for change.
RELATED: PARIS FASHION WEEK KICKS OFF
The biggest shock of the day came at the otherwise calm and gentle Nina Ricci show, when two topless activists from feminist group Femen crashed the podium. Grabbing a startled model making her way down the catwalk, they screamed 'fashion fascism,' with words decrying the sexualization of the modeling industry written in make-up across their naked torsos.
The rest of the day seemed quite mute in comparison, with Balmain continuing its opulent ornamentation, Barbara Bui revamping denim and Lanvin's ode to liquid glamor.
MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP/Getty Images
It was young, gifted and black all the way during Rick Owens' spirited and derailed presentation.
Young student-models appeared as if out of the heavens from a door at the top of a 50-foot (10-meter) metal scaffold.
They glared at the front row with angry expressions, producing an energy in the room that even topped Owens' last show, which featured live, swinging acrobats.
There was one down side: The speed of the spectacle, and the fact that some of the models didn't quite fit into the clothes made it hard to judge the collection clearly.
Still, there were certainly some interesting looks among the creations, which were divided into monochrome black, beige, gray and white sections.
The black looks, which featured sporty zippers and tight, structured leather paneling on tops, had some great details. One was a skirt made of baubles below a swirling, 3-D fabric panel.
The white section, too, with loose clean panels of fabric, had a sporty and futuristic vibe that matched the surreally oversized Adidas pumps.
Kamis, 26 September 2013
The last hurrah of Fashion Month has arrived: Paris Fashion Week. And celebrities and fashion personalities are already stepping out for the chic ready-to-wear shows, including Balenciaga, Chanel, and Lanvin. Keep up with who's sitting pretty in the front row when you keep clicking.
NBC teed up Revolution for small ratings in its move to 8 p.m. on Wednesdays -- and though it did take a significant drop from its post-Voice launch in 2012, the drama didn't open that far off from its performance in the fall.
Fast National ratings give Revolution a 1.8 rating among adults 18-49 and 6.8 million viewers. A year ago, Revolution brought in a 4.1 adults rating before falling significantly throughout the season before finishing with a 2.0 rating in the demo. The show averaged a 1.9 rating in the demo during the May sweep.
PHOTOS: 81 of Fall TV's Biggest Stars
And while Revolution may have been down, the lead-in did not hurt Law & Order: SVU (2.9 adults). The veteran procedural jumped 29 percent from last year's opener, posting its highest rating since May 2011.
Over on ABC, the full-hour premiere of Modern Family averaged a 4.1 rating with adults 18-49. The Emmy darling was down 25 percent from last year's 5.5 adults rating. Also down 25 percent was Nashville, kicking off its second season with a 2.1 rating in the demo. Like Revolution, Nashville saw steady dips last season after its robust launch (2.8 adults).
More to come...
Group therapy session? Wake-up call? Just a darn good show? Or maybe all three. But one thing is for sure, nobody will soon forget Rick Owens' spring 2014 runway show.
The California-raised, Paris-based designer recruited step dancers from college sororities all over the U.S., including Maryland, Washington, D.C., and the Los Angeles area to come to Paris and perform.
The lights came up, and there they came, descending the staircases at the top of the runway, dancing, clapping and stomping, all body types and sizes.
'He recruited us after he saw us on YouTube,' Allyn Toles, 21, a Delta Sigma Theta sorority sister from the University of Maryland said backstage afterward. 'It's our first time in Paris, and we're having a blast.'
The designer's direction for his model-dancers? 'Vicious,' they said.
Owens said he has known about step dancing for a while, citing it as an American art, and adding that he thinks of it as a kind of 'brutalist' form of expression.
It was brutal all right, with each model stepping forward not to smile for, but to scowl at the cameras. Each girl was more confident than the next, and that was beautiful.
The verdict: Who could focus on the clothes? And that may have been the point. In this day of fashion-shows-as-entertainment, maybe the performance really is the thing. Or maybe Owens was suggesting we spend too much time trying to read into the meaning of clothes when they are put on such a vaunted stage. They are just clothes after all. The joy the dancers brought to the runway, and the joy Owens brought to the dancers by giving them the experience of a lifetime? That was priceless.
The fifth-season premiere of ABC's Modern Family featured a marriage proposal that wouldn't have been possible only months ago. But in the wake of the U.S. Supreme Court's June decision allowing same-sex marriage in California, producers of the Emmy-winning comedy knew the time was right for its gay couple, Mitchell (Jesse Tyler Ferguson) and Cameron (Eric Stonestreet), to take the plunge. Here, Jeffrey Richman -- one of the 20th Television-produced comedy's two openly gay writer-producers -- reveals to The Hollywood Reporter's Lacey Rose in his own words the emotional process of writing Wednesday night's landmark episode....
We hadn't really talked about Mitch and Cam getting married until DOMA and Prop 8 came onto our radar when we got back to work in the middle of May. We don't usually do California-centric stories -- and while we don't really identify where the characters live, we knew we weren't going to send them to another state to get married and they weren't going to have a fake commitment ceremony. We'd avoided that for four seasons. Mitch and Cam have been in a relationship for eight years, they already are a family and they have a daughter, so there needed to be a reason for them to get married. This became the 'why now.'
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When it actually looked like [same-sex marriage] might become legal, it seemed like we could really make something of that. Then it sort of gathered momentum because it wouldn't just be a one-off story. It would give us episodes leading up to a wedding, and we're so hungry for stories. You could see a bachelor party, you could see a party planner, you could see so many things. We spent a lot of time and energy breaking the first story and arcing out potential other stories and then trying to find out, by whatever means we could, how close to being real this was. We were very ahead of ourselves and so enamored by the story arc and the idea that we went way out on a limb.
By the time it happened, June 26, we knew this was going to be the season premiere and there were two or three more episodes that had been broken that involved a wedding. There was no backup plan. When it finally passed, I was more happy as a writer, and then I remembered, 'Oh yeah, I can get married.' I was in London at the time, but I remember it was such a relief. If it had gone the other way, it would have meant a lot of work.
I remember we all got back to work in May and started to talk about that first episode. We usually work in two separate rooms, but that first week we were all together. I remember we talked a lot about how a proposal would work because even Abraham Higginbotham and I, the two openly gay writers in the room, didn't know. Does someone propose or does that make it a gender stereotype? And if it's OK, which one proposes? After a lot of discussion, we came up with this story where we'd have them on two separate tracks to propose to each other.
It's not a political show, and we bent over backwards in the episode not to be political. We all said this would not be about making a statement; it was very much about keeping it between these two people and what it means for them. These were questions that I dealt with personally, too. Now there's this law that's been lifted, what do we do with that? Do we get married? I know people whose relationships had suffered because one didn't want to get married. So again, our goal really was to keep whatever story we were telling very specific to Mitch and Cam and just have the California part of it be the reason, the jumping-off point.
PHOTOS: Gay Marriage, or Not, in Global Cinema
There are different ways and styles of telling stories, and, ultimately, it comes down to the taste of the showrunners. Whether we're being led by [co-showrunner] Chris Lloyd or by [co-showrunner] Steve Levitan infuses the episode with a certain sensibility, and then as writers our job is to fulfill that vision. This was a Chris episode. I was the only gay writer in Chris' room because Abraham was in the other room, and it was just a natural thing for me to write it. Now that's not true of particularly 'gay' episodes, but this one was different. Sometimes you can kind of raise your hand and sometimes it is just a natural thing. I think this was a little of both. Chris is a pretty thorough story-breaker, so I went off with a really solid structure and I didn't feel more or less pressure than I had with any other episode. But I loved the story.
As I started writing, I became unexpectedly emotional. I teared up writing it. I teared up hearing it read. And I completely teared up seeing that moment where they both just say 'yes' at the exact same time. That was so moving for me. I felt like, 'OK, maybe I got it right because I never cry at weddings.' My boyfriend [actor John Benjamin Hickey] always reads the first draft and he called me in tears after he read this one. The writers on the show were unbelievable, too. It's not that we're not sweet to each other normally, but we all have a lot of work to do and you forget to send an e-mail or compliment a writer on a draft that comes in. But I got a lot of really nice notes for this one. I think you don't realize how invested in those characters you are until this huge thing that had been denied to them suddenly is not an obstacle for them. I really hope it's as moving to other people as it is to me.
It turned into this very arduous shoot because it had a million different locations and it had night shoots. And that big emotional scene was on the side of the road, so even the geography was difficult for the [production] trucks to get to. It was shot all over town, too, and it was the first one back [after the summer hiatus] so all of the actors were there. But when Jesse and Eric filmed that final scene, you could see that that moment was going to land and be very special. You could just feel it.
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But you can't think of the historic part of it -- the 'Wow, these are the first gay characters on TV to be legally married' part. From a writing standpoint, it had to just be about telling a story. That's the job. We saw it was another vein we could tap into that would provide us stories, much like Gloria's [ Sofia Vergara] pregnancy did last year. Once I step away, though, I realize how unbelievably fortunate I am as a writer and as a gay person to have participated in something like this -- and on an insanely popular TV show. We don't have premiere parties anymore, so I'll watch it with my boyfriend at home. It'll be the first time he actually sees it.
E-mail: Lacey.Rose@thr.com Twitter@LaceyVRose
London designers are still thinking pink - and blue and yellow and lilac and green - in a line-up of pastel shades that would put a sweet shop at Easter to shame. Christopher Bailey dedicated the whole of his Burberry Prorsum collection to sugary hues - from spongy knit coats to strapless dresses and heavy lace trenchcoats. Go for one top-to-toe shade - or mix with white (the other big statement at the shows) for something fresh, saccharine and summery. 'Pink has become a neutral,' said Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson. And she has a point; find the right shade for you and it can work a darn sight better than beige.
The big contradiction at the heart of the London collections was that although there have never been so many embellished, bejewelled, appliquéd and downright tricksy designs on the runway, the freshest looking were also the simplest. Think of a sweatshirt or square-cut T-shirt shape over a soft A-line or pleat skirt and you have your summer wardrobe in the bag. Easy. Of course if that T-shirt happens to be in a luxurious damask or bubbly clouqué fabric, and the pleat skirt is in a rich floral lace or a gauzey pastel organza, so much the better.
Everything in the garden was rosy at the London collections. Yes, flowers were a trend taken up by just about everyone - and not just any old blooms either. 'Flower prints have been done to death,' admitted Christopher Kane after his show, inspired by dissecting flora during his school days. The newest-looking blooms come in three dimensions created to add texture and depth: petals cut from organza and scattered over dresses, heavily embroidered floral designs stitched into satin, and sheer layers or florals crafted into glittering works of art in crystals. OK, there were some cool prints too but if it looks like you've pinned a bouquet's worth of flowerheads to your dress next season, so much the better.
For more from the international collections, visit www.ft.com/fashionweeks
Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2013. You may share using our article tools. Please don't cut articles from FT.com and redistribute by email or post to the web.
Rabu, 25 September 2013
Posted on Wednesday, September 25th, 2013 at 12:48 PM
By Jennifer Obiuwevbi
Eki Orleans is out with its Spring/Summer 2014 collection titled A Slice of Africa.
With this collection the designer presents a sublime visual discourse on the African continent and its relationship with China. The collection has been described as the labels reaction to the growing Chinese investment in Africa; a symbolic representation of the harmonious fusion between the two cultures.
Fusing inspiration from both China and Africa, the collections pieces have prints inspired by African cultural imagery and the other prints with Chinese design elements.
Eki Orleans suggests that the intersection of African and Chinese culture can create something that is beautiful, chic and sophisticated. The designer- Hazel Aggrey-Orleans - elaborated that ' With the African-inspired print, I wanted a design that creates the illusion of rows and rows of market stalls and the resulting electricity and energy found in traditional African markets. With the Chinese-inspired print, I was drawn by the beauty of traditional Chinese floral vases. '
Staying true to the Eki Orleans aesthetic, the collection features light dresses in flattering silhouettes in a breath-taking yellow and lime colour palette.
Check it out.
Photo Credits:Photography: Jean-Christophe HermierModels: Mulan Itoje | RowenaMUA: Karen SalandyHair stylist: Regina Meessen
Tags: african fashion, BN Style, Chinese fashion, Chinese prints, Eki Olreans, fashion, Hazel Aggrey-Orleans, Jean-Christophe Hermier, Karen Salandy, Lookbook, Mulan Itoje, nigerian fashion, Regina Meesen, Rowena
Selasa, 24 September 2013
On Tuesday, Sept. 24, salons, spas and cosmetic boutiques are teaming up to help you look and feel your best during Fashion Week Highland Park. Learn about new products and services, or schedule a complimentary consultation during these all day events to finally put all your beauty questions to bed.
Start your morning with Spa Dabin Nails and more. From 9 a.m. until 12 p.m., enjoy complimentary coffee and breakfast treats and 25 percent off all services, plus the first 25 customers will receive a goodie bag. A representative from Sheseido will be in store doing mini make up tutorials, along with two RGB organic nail polish representatives. All specials will be by appointment only - Call 847-681-8830 and reserve your spot before it's too late. Cos Bar will host a day of complimentary skincare check-ups. Guests can call the store to set up a free 15-minute consultation at 847-432-6249.
Take advantage of complimentary upgrades in the Equinox spa on Sept. 24. Members and non-members will receive an 80-minute massage for the price of a 50-minute massage ($110 for Swedish, $115 for Deep Tissue). While you're there make sure to stop by the store for the Erin Gallagher Trunk Show from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. and receive 20 percent off any full price purchase. Get designer inspired cosmetics for a fraction of the cost at Ross Cosmetics & Boutique. Mix and match your favorite lip color, eye shadow and foundation, receive one for half off! (Valid during the duration of Fashion Week, Sept. 21-28). From 10:00 am to 4:00 pm stop by Casas Aesthetic Surgery and receive a special tote bag filled with a certificate for a complimentary consultation, a 10 percent savings card for future services and a $200 gift card toward any Fat Reduction Procedure (after full consent has been provided).
Enjoy cookies, light snacks and a raffle for a mystery prize, while learning about the latest beauty treatments. For a full list of special events, updates on Fashion Week Highland Park, visit: fashionweekhp.com About The Downtown Highland Park Alliance is a public-private partnership of the Highland Park CBD Property Owners Association, the City of Highland Park and the Highland Park Chamber of Commerce. The Alliance was founded in 2008 to enhance the economic vitality of Downtown Highland Park. The operations and promotions of the Alliance are funded by a Special Service Area commercial property tax currently authorized through 2013.
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Jumat, 20 September 2013
Supported by Rep. Jim Gerlach, the rule subjects breeders to federal inspections if they sell on the Internet
By JOHN LATIMERLebanon Daily News
Updated: 09/20/2013 11:04:24 AM EDT
New rules designed to provide better oversight of dog breeders who sell via the Internet are getting contrasting reviews from dog breeders and pet welfare advocates.
But one Lebanon Valley lawmaker stands firmly behind the regulations.
The new rule announced last week by the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service would close a so-called Internet loophole that previously exempted commercial dog breeders who sold pets 'sight unseen' from having their kennels inspected.
Under the new regulations, a commercial breeder with more than four breeding females must adhere to the Animal Welfare Act, which means being licensed and undergoing regular inspections, said Ed Avalos, the USDA's under secretary for marketing and regulatory programs. These are the same regulations already required of large wholesale breeders.
'Requiring these breeders to adhere to the Animal Welfare Act standards is important because we know that if the federal standards are being met, the animals are getting humane care and treatment,' Avalos said in a news release.
The rule change follows a 2010 inspector general's audit that found more than 80 percent of sample breeders were not subject to inspection, resulting in many unhealthy dogs being sold to unsuspecting buyers.
The new regulations do not apply to 'hobby breeders' with four or fewer breeding females, and most animal rescue groups and shelters are also exempt, according to the USDA. It also does
not apply to retail dog stores where buyers can inspect dogs before purchasing them.
Congressman Jim Gerlach, whose 6th District includes Lebanon County, applauded the USDA's action. For several years, the Chester County Republican has been advocating greater oversight of Internet dog breeders by introducing bills to correct the problem. The bills never made their way through Congress.
'Puppy mill profiteers will no longer be able to hide online and sell starved and sickly dogs to families looking for a new pet,' he said in a news release. 'By closing this Internet loophole in the federal Animal Welfare Act, the law has finally caught up with technology.'
Gerlach added that the regulations are not targeted at reputable breeders.
'Reputable and responsible breeders will not be hindered by this new federal rule,' he said. 'It is aimed at protecting dogs and making individuals motivated by profit rather than the fair and humane treatment of dogs accountable.'
But Cindy Williams isn't convinced.
Williams, who sits on the board of Harrisburg Kennel Club, breeds Brittany spaniels at her North Londonderry Township home. While she supports the intent of the regulations, she believes the language is too vague.
For example, there is no definition for a breeding female, Williams said. Brittany spaniels should not be bred before they are 2 years old, she explained, but females of most breeds can be bred before they reach a year.
Without a clear definition of a breeding female, Williams maintained it could create a situation in which a breeder with a large litter of young dogs for sale would be in violation of the regulations.
Williams also is bothered by the regulations because they will affect trusted breeders who may have occasional Internet sales to buyers who purchase a dog sight unseen.
As a member of Gov. Ed Rendell's task force that several years ago made recommendations that tightened Pennsylvania's breeder regulations, Williams said she understands rules regulating Internet sales are needed, but the ones announced by the USDA need refining.
'Current laws are not geared towards the Internet or the World Wide Web, but that is the way we are moving, and we need some regulation there,' she said. 'I just think the way we are set up right now is going to encompass a lot of hobby breeders. I don't think that is what they meant to do. But that is what will happen. And it is all because of the vagueness of the wording.'
The Humane Society of Berks County recently took over management of the Lebanon County Humane Society shelter in Jackson Township. A spokesman for the organization said he feels the stronger state regulations have been helpful, but a law governing Internet sales is long overdue.
'We do have a lot of dog breeders in the area, and so far the state dog law-enforcement officers have done a good job of regulating those kennels, but you will always see exceptions and sometimes those exceptions are horrific,' Dylan Heckart said.
Heckart said he understands Williams' criticism of the regulations but feels they will successfully address a problem that outweighs the concerns of reputable breeders.
'I don't think necessarily that common sense protective legislation is outweighed by private business interests,' he said. 'In a case like this, where a need is demonstrated and it's clear there are problems, closing the loophole makes a lot of sense. If it does have a negative impact on reputable breeders, I think that impact will be minimal.'
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Based on Live + 3 viewing, the summer finale of 'Pretty Little Liars' became the #1 telecast in ABC Family history in Adults 18-34 (2.1 million/3.1 rating), Women 18-34 (1.8 million/5.4 rating), Women 18-49 (2.3 million/3.5 rating), Viewers 12-34 (3.3 million/3.6 rating) and Females 12-34 (3.0 million/6.4 rating), and its #1 series telecast of all time in Adults 18-49 (2.7 million/2.1 rating).
Impressively, 'Pretty Little Liars' now accounts for ABC Family's Top 6 telecasts on record in Adults 18-34, Top 18 in Women 18-34, Top 7 in Females 12-34, and its Top 8 series telecasts in Women 18-49.
'Pretty Little Liars' was the #1 'most social' TV series in August 2013, generating 3 million tweets by over 800,000 unique contributors, powered by its record breaking summer finale - the #1 'most tweeted' series episode in TV history (1.9 million).
Based on L+ 3 ratings, 'Pretty Little Liars' season 4A was ABC Family's best season for any original series in the network's history in Adults 18-34 (1.7 million/2.4 rating), Women 18-34 (1.4 million/4.1 rating), Adults 18-49 (2.1 million/1.7 rating) and Women 18-49 (1.7 million/2.7 rating), out of its 43 original series to date.
Source: NTI Live + 3 ratings, 8/27/13.