Kamis, 19 September 2013

Milan Fashion Week: MaxMara spring/summer 2014


MaxMara makes a statement with nylon and nipples at Milan Fashion Week.


BY Lisa Armstrong | 19 September 2013



Photo: Isidore Montag


It takes a lot to shock the fashion crowd. Nudity, swastikas, Vivienne Westwood's knickers - over the years we've seen them all on the catwalk. But a sheer pair of tights in an open toed sandal constitutes a heresy against every known taste edict. And to think it was MaxMara that challenged the fashion world's belief system with this solecism.


MaxMara makes very beautiful, classic coats in wonderfully plush wools and cashmeres and sells them for a not unreasonable price considering the quality. All this, you would think, makes it shoo-in for brand of the decade, if not the millennium. But during show week, on a catwalk, beautiful, timeless clothes are not enough. No siree. You need stardust and statements and, if it's Milan, a rogue nipple or two.


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MaxMara certainly came up trumps with the statement in the form of those be-nyloned toes. It also delivered on the other requirements. The slip dress - that spindly strapped totem of Nineties fashion - has been on most catwalks over the last couple of weeks, and at MaxMara it became what fashion editors like to call the building block of the wardrobe. Midi in length, skimpy of nature, a nightie by any other name, it was reworked over and over in twinkly meshes, blonde cashmeres and cobalt or purple silk - and yes, there was the nipple flasher.


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But it was also layered under delectable double-faced buttonless cashmere pastel coats. As per usual, the coats were the money shot, as far as most women are concerned. The photographers, as ever, thought differently.


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