Selasa, 30 September 2014

Paris Fashion Week Morning Report


As the song goes, it's the final countdown.


Paris Fashion Week - heck, the whole of fashion month - is drawing to a close. It's the penultimate day of shows here, and now that the Air France strike is over, there is even a decent chance that we'll be able to get home (normal service is expected to resume today). Three exhausted, slightly bedraggled cheers!


It's worth rallying for the Tuesday shows: The great powers are out in force. Chanel starts the day at 10:30 at its usual venue, the Grand Palais. But time and place are the only usual things about it. Karl Lagerfeld is famous for staging epic productions, complete with their own opera-size, bogglingly detailed sets. There have been Nordic icebergs; looming globes; a Chanel gallery with a full exhibition's worth of large-scale, double-C art and sculpture; and, last season, the famous supermarket that looked likely to crash Instagram with its innumerable photo ops. What next? Only Mr. Lagerfeld knows.


The afternoon brings Valentino to the tent (sorry, Espace Éphémère) in the Tuileries. Will Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri continue the dotty, Mod theme they introduced last season?


Mod is not the word for Iris Van Herpen, the young Dutch designer, who is more in the spotlight since she was awarded this year's Andam Prize. Her work is as eerie as Valentino's is sweet: The show last season featured models suspended in plastic above the runway, air pumping into their cocoons through tubes. The effect was chilling - though a model descended from the plastic after the show assured a concerned reporter that she felt fine. At least, thought the reporter, the model didn't have to negotiate the runway in yet another pair of impossible shoes.


An appetite for the outré unites Ms. Van Herpen and Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, the day's last big show. Under Mr. McQueen, the label staged some of the most memorable shows in contemporary fashion, and Ms. Burton, its current steward and creative director, has carried on the torch. She lights it again at 7:30 p.m.


Follow our Fashion Week coverage on Twitter at @nytfashion.


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