Kamis, 26 Desember 2013

Best of 2013: Dining


In April, Kelly English toasted the fifth anniversary of Restaurant Iris, and, on the last day of November, opened his second local restaurant, The Second Line, next to Iris; it was so popular they ran out of food the first night.


Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman celebrated more than the fifth anniversary of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen. They were named on Food & Wine's Best New Chefs 2013 list and opened the Holding Pen, the dive bar attached to the back of Hog & Hominy, the restaurant they opened in 2012 and which was featured in GQ magazine and reviewed by The New York Times this year.


Ryan Trimm, with Sweet Grass and Next Door under his belt in Midtown, went east and opened Southward Fare & Libations in Regalia. Soul Fish opened its third location, smack on Poplar Avenue in the heart of East Memphis. Sekisui, which closed on Humphreys as 2012, reopened an East Memphis restaurant in October. Mellow Mushroom moved into the former AAA building at Park and White Station. Jeremy Denno put Rock 'n Dough Pizza in at Park and Ridgeway, and Pyros Fire Fresh Pizza later opened in the same center.



Justin Shaw/The Commercial Appeal



Photo by Brian Johnson



Back in Midtown, ¡Chiwawa! and Bar Louie opened in Overton Square, Karen Carrier opened Bar DKDC in the Cooper-Young space where Do Sushi was for years, and across the street, Cafe OlĂ© was purchased by restaurateur Sandy Robertson (who some years ago purchased Carrier's Downtown restaurant, Automatic Slim's). Young Avenue saw the launch of Greencork, the city's first self-serve wine bar, and The Growler Memphis, which offers about two dozen microbrewed beers for sale by the growler (including some from Wiseacre Brewing, which opened on Broad in 2013), set up shop on Cooper. Monsieur DeMarcus French Creperie moved to the closed Neely's spot on the edge of Victorian Village.


On Beale Street, a cute little soda shop in A. Schwab's and Jerry Lee Lewis' Cafe & Honky Tonk opened.


Gary Williams' popular DejaVu New Orleans Creole Soul Food & Vegetarian Restaurant moved into a renovated space on S. Main (the Florida location remains open). Tamp & Tap, where you can 'grind or unwind' with coffee or beer, and Havana's Pilon, a Cuban restaurant, join the new spots on the city's west end. Southern Belle, in the Medical Center and only open for lunch and catering, closed and owner David Johnson took on partners and opened Belle Diner on Union, where they serve lunch and dinner.


Ciao Baby! pizzeria opened in Collierville. The small Southern chain Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe opened in East Memphis. On Highland, Cafe Eclectic's third location popped up, and the long-standing Super Submarine Sandwich Shop (known as the 'Chinese Sub Shop') closed, but opened on Summer as Highland Super Submarine Shop.


It was a year of mostly casual dining; the big upside to that is that you can eat a meal for about $20 at most of our Top 10 restaurants reviewed in 2013 (and closer to $10 at several). The list is based on printed reviews and, in some cases, on subsequent visits. Here they are, in alphabetical order:


Bar DKDC, 964 S. Cooper (901-272-0830), is all about small plates and a changing menu. One week you might find Indian food, another time the kitchen might be cooking New Orleans favorites, or you might luck up on Jamaican and Caribbean dishes, which is what was being served when Alyce Mantia Price reviewed it in May. Whatever you find, the prices will be fair, ranging from about $3-$9, affordable enough to split several plates with friends and enjoy specialty cocktails too.


Bharat International Market & Restaurant, 3675 Southwind Park Cove #104 (901-759-1939), is completely lacking in atmosphere, but makes up for it with inexpensive, plentiful and fiery Indian dishes. There's a lunch buffet that turns over quickly enough to make it worthy of a recommendation, or you can go at night and order from the menu. If they say it's hot, as in the vindaloo dishes, it's hot. Take your server at his word and speak up if you can't take the heat. J.B.


¡Chiwawa!, 2059 Madison (901-207-1456), can be a bit hit or miss, but the hot dogs and the interesting Mexican food, such as the Juan tons, are so good when they're on that ¡Chiwawa! makes the list. Specialty cocktails, friendly service and a large patio add to the appeal. A dessert of churros, fried lengths of dough dusted with cinnamon and sugar, served with a chile-spiked dark chocolate sauce and cinnamon gelato from YoLo (owned by ¡Chiwawa! co-owner Taylor Berger) only missed the '100 More Things to Eat in Memphis Before You Die' list by this much. J.B.


Derae, 923 S. Highland (901-552-3992). Where have you been all my life, Ethiopian food? Well, it's not as if we were complete strangers, but Derae's food is spicier, richer, just fuller than the other Ethiopian food I've had (which certainly wasn't bad). The fuul, a dish of soft fava beans in a thick broth, topped with fresh and dried peppers, diced onion, sour cream and upon request, a fried egg, is outrageously good. J.B.


Elwood's Shack, 4523 Summer (901-761-9898), is the gift that doesn't stop giving. Every time I visit, I find a new favorite. Jerk chicken wings, beef brisket and pork shoulder are smoked on big grills, there are fresh cinnamon rolls at breakfast, and the steelhead trout fish tacos, with avocado and a creamy horseradish sauce, are one of my favorite things in town. J.B.


Folk's Folly, 551 S. Mendenhall (901-762-8200), will set you back a little, but for your light wallet you'll experience a true steak house, from great food to service to a clubby atmosphere that makes you want brandy and a cigar. Peggy Burch reviewed the Memphis institution - it opened in 1977 - and says it's as good as ever.


Havana's Pilon, 143 Madison (901-527-2878). Four syllables: Em-pa-na-das. You generally don't go wrong with a fried pie, and these savory versions with shrimp, ham and cheese or - best of all - guava and cheese might on their own warrant the restaurant's inclusion on this list. But the piccadillo and ropa vieja are terrific and Havana's Pilon (which has expanded since it opened, but is still a small place) roasts a mean chicken too. J.B.


High Point Pizza, 477 High Point Terrace (901-452-3339). Four more syllables: Muf-fa-let-ta. I say you can't find a better one in town but ask that if you do, you'll be good enough to give me a call. They also make a nice lasagna at this little pizzeria in the strip center with Cheffie's and High Point Grocery, a mighty fine pizza, and zeppole, tiny Italian doughnuts reminiscent of beignets, that are addictive. J.B.


Local, 2126 Madison (901-725-1845), opened toward the end of 2012 in the renovated Yosemite Sam's on the northwest corner of Cooper and Madison. The burger is superb, catfish and grits excellent, and weekday $10 lunch specials generous and delicious. J.B.


Tsunami, 928 S. Cooper (901-274-2556), celebrated 15 years in Cooper-Young this summer and is still seating a full house most nights. Chef/owner Ben Smith continues to serves his signature sea bass (though at almost twice the price of some of the other dishes), and remains a master at seasoning. His flavors are bold but not overwhelming, and the small plates offer the perfect amount for all but the hungriest diners.


You finish completely satisfied and still comfortable. J.B.


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