Versace - not a label known for a low-key take on glamour - relaxed a little for the autumn/winter 2014 show. Taking place on Friday evening, as part of Milan fashion week, the usual body-conscious, rock star look was toned down. In its place were clothes that allowed their wearer to breathe easy.
The central concept was the bias-cut dress. A technique where the fabric is cut on the diagonal, bias cut allows for greater freedom of movement and skims rather than clings to the body. Here, it was utilised on simple - for Versace - designs, rather like slipdresses but with long sleeves and asymmetric hemlines. A white one, worn by Georgia May Jagger, showed a military influence - the gold buttons of a captain's jacket appeared on the belt around her waist, all embossed with the Medusa that is the Versace crest.
Some - including a fetching petrol blue dress, which designer Donatella Versace nominated as her favourite - had tiny splits along the seams, for a hint of the brand's trademark sex appeal. Other outfits included classic tuxedos in red, white and black, and - not forgetting the customer that likes her bling - a short suit which featured gold thread and crystals. Most models wore boots, some thigh-high and embellished with embroidery, and all were dripping in gold jewellery. The Versace muse is softened, but her glamour won't be dampened completely.
Donatella Versace said: 'This is another part of the Versace woman. It's sensual, softer, but I always want the tough part too.' This time, that came with the military details like the gold buttons and epaulettes on tuxedos, inspired by her brother Gianni and his collection of antique military uniforms. The collection had Donatella experimenting with a combination that nails that Versace look once again - just in a different way. 'I feel very fortunate because the company is doing well,' she said. 'I feel confident.'
Rumours of an IPO continue to swirl around Versace, bolstered by increased sales. In the latest figures, revenues grew 20% in 2012, to £335.9m. Speaking in April, chief executive Gian Giacomo Ferraris said the company might go public when they get to sales of €500m or €600m (£410m or £493m), a target that is expected to be reached in three to five years.
In December, it was revealed that investors are lining up to buy what would be a 20% stake in the company valued at £900m. CCMP Capital, an Italian private equity firm, are the frontrunners to invest.
One of their senior advisers is one of only three non-family members on the Versace board. Versace is privately owned by the Versace family. Donatella and her brother Santo hold 30% and 20% stakes respectively. Donatella's daughter, Allegra Versace Beck, has 50%.
Earlier in the day, two of Milan's minimalists showcased the flip side of Versace's Italian glamour. Emporio Armani's morning show ticked all the designer's boxes - with strong tailoring, a largely monochrome palatte and evening dresses, often in black velvet, that had an easy elegance. The playful use of pearls - which featured on seams of palazzo pants, decoration on dresses and fun gobstopper earrings - was new, and gave youthful verve to the 79-year-old's collection. Sportmax, the younger line from Maxmara, was also upbeat. While the cut of the clothes was simple and sleek, as expected, pattern and texture added a new dimension.
Leopard print dominated from the first look - a below the knee belted coat - and python, mohair and fur were also used. The best outfits here were the ones where these textures were juxtaposed. Leather obi belts over marble print party dresses would appeal to arty types. And a high-waisted midi-skirt worn with a cropped boiled wool sweater, both in leopard, scored approval from the front row.
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