Denim on denim, or the Canadian tuxedo as it's sometimes called, has had a pretty bad rap. Personally, I blame Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake. When the pair turned up at the 2001 American Music Awards wearing matching head-to-toe light wash, a whole generation vowed never to go near it.
It's become one of those unspoken rules, like not wearing shoes with tracksuit bottoms or not wearing scrunchies over the age of 11. For spring, though, many big brands have worked hard to change your mind.
From Balmain to Louis Vuitton, denim dominated this season's runways. It's not just jeans that are having a moment: American designer Joseph Altuzarra sent out models in silk shirts with prints that replicated the fabric.
'We have definitely seen a shift in this direction,' says Matchesfashion.com buying manager Suzanne Pendlebury. 'It feels like a much more modern, luxe way of wearing denim.'
Meanwhile, the big jeans names have been bulking up on their denim separates. 'About 20-25 per cent of our new collection is comprised of separates,' says Chloe Lonsdale, the woman behind premium British denim brand MiH Jeans.
'They have expanded their collections out of necessity,' says Net-A-Porter buyer Octavia Bradford. 'There are myriad skinny and boyfriend jeans, so brands have had to find other ways to build out their collections. Creating denim ready-to-wear is a great solution to this.'
Retailers are taking heed. From luxury names such as Net-A-Porter and Selfridges to high-street stores such as Topshop and Warehouse, everyone is getting in on the action.
'This season, we have increased our buy-in ready-to-wear denim by 30 per cent, with the inclusion of dungarees, shirts, skirts and jackets,' says Harvey Nichols leisurewear buyer Vikki Kavanagh.
Matchesfashion.com has even snapped up young design duo Marques'Almeida, who are known for their denim-heavy collections. At River Island, you'll find even skorts in denim.
But the shift isn't coming solely from designers. 'Before, wearing denim on denim was the most uncool thing ever - and then street style happened,' says Bradford.
'A few brave editors and bloggers pioneered the look and it became super-cool very quickly.' She has a point. Bloggers such as Man Repeller's Leandra Medine offered up a host of styling ideas, making the thought of wearing denim dungarees or clashing washes feel slightly less daunting.
'The dungaree is a huge trend and can actually be extremely flattering,' says Kavanagh. 'Shirts, shorts and jackets are big for denim ready-to-wear but dungarees will be the statement denim piece come summer.'
The shift is certainly in line with the new relaxed mood. Despite the colours and prints doing the rounds, the attitude in fashion is laid-back. Anyone who has followed Balmain, a brand known for bling and audacity, could never have predicted denim would play such a large role in the collection. 'At its heart, it's a democratic, inexpensive fabric so is definitely in line with the mood for understatement,' says Lonsdale. 'It's not the time to be flashing lots of money.'
Asos, too, has mastered this season's true blue simplicity. Its SS14 collection offers a wide spectrum of blue washes, ranging from distressed options to vintage shades on jeans, crop tops and more.
Topshop is another good bet, with the best range on the high street. You're spoilt for choice with separates: a ruffle hem denim skirt looks much more expensive than its £34 price tag and distressed denim jackets will work well come festival season. The main draw, though, is its range of dungarees - some of the best on the market and a steal at £48.
For those wanting to make a statement with one item, go for patchwork denim inspired by Junya Watanabe's much-loved design. River Island's Cassie jeans, which are currently half price, and H&M's low-rise skinny styles are good options.
If you're prepared to spend a bit extra, Citizens of Humanity founder Jerome Dahan is relaunching an old 1990s denim line called A Gold E, set to hit John Lewis on Saturday. With prices ranging from £100 to £200, the collection is starting with jeans only and will comprise nine fits including the Colette skinny, the Charlotte slim boyfriend and the Zoe cut-off shorts.
Shirt, £29.99, www.zara.com; skirt, £19.99, www.newlook.com; Jeans, £130, A Gold E, www.johnlewis.com (from next week); jacket, £48, www.topshop.com
Dungarees, £48, www.topshop.com; jeans, £19.99, www.hm.com
Denim queen Donna Ida, who owns boutiques and runs fitting clinics, shares her top tips on how to wear denim.Lighter wash denim encapsulates the mood for spring with an easy-to-wear, nonchalant look. For those not prepared to do a full-on denim look, team a slouch pale pair of boyfriend jeans with a chunky black leather biker jacket and a statement necklace for a tougher look. As seen on the catwalk at DKNY, dungarees are an edgy choice for those willing to embrace them. They are best worn oversized in classic denim washes, teamed with a belt and super-high heels or pointed flats. Wear a classic tee underneath or add a flash of colour with a bright vest. Finish off with an oversized coat or jacket from a brand such as Each x Other to work the androgynous trend. Balmain gave a nod to the 1980s with head-to-toe denim with heaps of embellishments. Get the look with a pair of oversized boyfriend jeans or slouch skinnies with a denim shirt or jacket in a tonal or contrasting colour. If you're not going head-to-toe, make a statement with one piece. Distressed, ripped and frayed jeans were huge last year and this season they hit the catwalks again with added patchwork details. The key here is to make it look like you've had your jeans forever, so wear styles that look worn-out with unfinished hems for that relaxed look. Team ripped jeans with a slogan tee from Zoe Karssen or Simeon Farrar for an added hint of 1990s rebellion. If you opt for colour, go with one block shade to let the jeans stand out.
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