Selasa, 25 Februari 2014

The StyleList: New York Fashion Week ends with flare

FASHION COLUMNIST



Photo courtesy of travelerstoday.com


New York Fashion Week ended with a fresh layer of snow on the streets Thursday Feb. 13, making for a tough winter commute. But a little white stuff didn't hold anyone back from stomping the New York City streets in the highest of heels and furriest of furs to gaze at the new fall 2014 fashions.


Ralph Lauren's morning presentation was heavy on pewter silk evening dresses, including one with a dramatic cape attached and another in pale silvery pink that totally demands placement on the Oscars' red carpet.


The Michael Kors presentation included clothing ranging from easy printed dresses cinched with a leather belt and simple cotton shirts tucked into A-line skirts, to chunky cardigans over a little slip of a dress.


'I'm a big city guy,' Kors told style.com, and this collection certainly suits the big city girl.


Chocolate suede fringe looked super-glam with an ombré pullover, and cashmere jogging pants added a new range of casual luxury that Kors always seems to do so well.


There was a laidback ease throughout the presentation with a flowy, 70s vibe that created a wonderful balance between masculine and feminine qualities. A stunning show by far.


Alexander Wang forced the fashion world to cross the east river to show at the Navy Yards in Brooklyn this year.


One thing I've learned this season is that making it in the big city requires two things: a great coat and walking boots. Wang had both.


Outerwear was the show's strongest category, and there were a lot of amazing options, from suede down puffers, to shearlings, to silk windbreakers with jacquards of mountain scenes at the hem.


A strong sartorial element stamped the essence of surviving the urban landscape with preciously functional details, including tiny snap pockets that decorated 90 percent of the garments.


Gucci went back to the 1960s this season with snug pea coats and patent loafers, all in muted monochromatic tones. Sleeveless dresses with sharp, above-the-knee hems had a youthful effectiveness as well.


A-line evening dresses came in soft leather in poppy pastels - baby blue, sage green and a mustardy yellow - or animal-spot pony hair. Materials included curly teddy bear shearling, goat hair, beaver and mink delivered in amazing shapes. Gucci truly turned it out this season, making it my favorite collection so far.


The final show of a memorable fashion week belonged to Marc Jacobs, the designer who left his position at Louis Vuitton in October to focus full time on his signature collection in New York. Given the change, the fashion industry expected big things, and Jacobs surely delivered.


His show was, as usual, a fascinating production. Foam-filled clouds were suspended from the ceiling, making the mood decidedly upbeat. The models with uniform straight hair, headbands and soft makeup marched down the runway in variations of muted colors, long knit tunics with matching knit pants, fur bomber jackets, and easy dresses with layers of gradient ruffles. A truly spectacular event.


What should we expect from the upcoming fashions next fall? Miles and miles of suede, muted tones and a whole lot of 60s beatnik style.


mciccone92@hotmail.com


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