Not being tacked onto the four headed beast we contend with twice yearly means Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia flies a little under the radar. This has often resulted in it being viewed as a springboard for local designers before they grow up and move to New York (good to have you, Dion Lee) but it also lets media (hi) view it with less jaded eyes.
This year's MBFWA was a solid mix of Australian fashion linchpins ( Zimmermann and Ellery both returned to the runway this year despite showing overseas only a couple of months earlier) and rising stars (we've been stalking Emma Mulholland on Instagram for a while.) Here are five designers we'll be making sure to check up on more regularly.
1. Christopher Esber Masterful minimalism is Esber's jam, which was this time inspired by sailing gear. For those of us without a yacht and weeks of accumulated vacation pay, there are always those crisp little nautical jackets and breezy mini dresses with round gold buttons. Fabrics ranged from custom knitwear to silk charmeuse, none of it anything you'd want to fall overboard in.
2. Romance Was Born They say never trust a skinny chef, so perhaps you should exercise the same caution when it comes to minimalist dressers who parade kaleidoscopes down their runways. With Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales, the degree of caution that would be zero. The two are style stars in their own right, ruthlessly dedicated to bright hair and brighter clothes, and their collections consistently channel Susie Lau on an acid trip while also consistently never being the same. (Other inspirations have included Marvel Comics and psychedelic aliens.) The below look is from last season's runway, with this year's taking the form of a 10-year retrospective.
3. Desert Designs They might be new, but their story goes back to a Fremantle Prison art class in 1986. Stephen Culley and David Wroth, art teachers, were so impressed with the vivid drawings of inmate and Walmajarri artist Jimmy Pike that they had the idea of marketing the prints on fabric. In 2012 Culley relaunched Desert Designs as a creative collective directed by Jedda Daisy-Culley and Caroline Sundt-Wels, and this week made the label's MBFWA debut with a rich showcase of landscape-inspired prints staying true to their Aboriginal origins.
4. Leroy Nguyen The new grad's Spring 2014 collection married surfwear with strong tailoring, padded fabrics with fluid ones, and stark whites with vivid blue color. This stuff would fly equally well on Bondi Beach and in Downtown NYC.
5. Emma Mulholland Trippy Australiana and '90s surf culture happen big time at Emma Mulholland. Past inspirations range from intergalactic raves to lizards dueling in a Mexican desert, with this year's 'Risque Business' shaping up via neon, washed-out pastels, and plenty of humor. This is spring break for girls too cool to actually, you know, go on spring break.
Related links:19 Rad Street Style Looks From Fashion Week Australia30 Under 30: Fashion Designers Changing the GameBeyoncé's Random Australia Photo Shoot Sparks Amazing Meme
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