Black crop tops at Nicholas K (left), leather and layers at Richard Chai Love (center) and fur at BCBG (right) were spotted at Thursday's shows.
Fall's first look is uneven.
It's not a commentary on the quality of the fashion. Au contraire - the autumn's first looks shown on New York Fashion Week's first day are up to standards. It's the designers that are working asymmetrical pieces into their looks.
LIVE BLOG: FASHION WEEK FALL 2014
Hemlines were all over the place at BCBG Max Azria, often on the same dress. It's a look that works for many - women who are comfortable with short hems get the free feeling that comes with showing a little leg, while those who prefer longer skirts get the coverage they crave. It's a look that has an insouciance to it - you're not conforming to any one look. 'Nonchalantly elegant' is how designers Max and Lubov Azria describe it in their show notes.
Handkerchief hemlines were all over the catwalk at Richard Chai Love. The designer himself is rarely seen without a shirt tied around his waist as an almost skirt-like accessory, so we get that he loves long, one-sided drape-y bits. Worn layered up with equally uneven shirts and jackets, this collection takes its vibe from the old 1980s Esprit catalogues.
PHOTOS: NICHOLAS K FALL 2014
Layers at Nicholas K were artfully arranged from the basic one-shouldered bra top all the way out to the military-inspired anoraks and long coats. The somewhat loosey-goosey looks were accessorized with fur eye masks worn as headbands, boots sturdy enough to take on New York's recent inclement weather, and a genius series of oversized nautical knots tied into bold necklaces and bracelets. We're hooked.
Tadashi Shoji was inspired by a Moorish palace and featured luxuriant fabrics like micro suede, tulle and Chantilly lace that was all manipulated to let light shine through the clothing. His is a collection jam-packed with red carpet looks, though the best gowns were the distressed-looking mixed media frocks. The combination of velvet pailettes and frayed chiffon proves that you don't necessarily need sparkle to be glamorous.
Lacy, illusory looks also took to the catwalk at Costello Tagliapietra. This design duo punched up the sex factor by tailoring their sheaths to be form-fitting, and adding details like exposed back zippers for an edge. Also kicking their style up a notch was a gold lamé, men's tailored skinny suit that screams to be put on a fashion maverick like Cate Blanchett.
And though it may seem obvious, fall is always about outerwear. The news this season is that the oversized looks of last fall are even bigger for coats, anoraks and moto jackets, all trimmed with copious amounts of fur - collars, cuffs, even over vests.
PHOTOS: TADASHI SHOJI FALL 2014
With Sheila McClear
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