Senin, 07 Juli 2014

Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring Summer

Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 - We thought we would never get there on time as the gods of air strikes had decided to curse our already challenging schedule and yet, we arrived in Paris right in time for the much expected 8:30 pm show. It took Raf Simons' guests a few minutes to realize it was actually the same models wearing the very same outfits walking around the confusing runway paths of the Espace Vendome, surrounded by the standing guests lit only by red and green lights and almost hypnotized by music reminding of TV show Lost's soundtrack during the most dramatic scenes. Sci-fi seemed to be a recurrent inspiration: the general atmosphere combined with the colorful platform sneakers which lit up just like the ones kids wear and love, as well as the few strings of hair attached to the men's head created a unique, out-of-this-planet mood. Dark tones dominated the collection and black narrow pants were the shared element of all the outfits, focusing the attention on black jackets on which lapels extended onto mid-back length, with a piece of fabric on which collage formed by visual memories of the designer were added, as well as abstract print t-shirts worn under tailored sleeveless jackets. Knitted monochrome tank tops were worn over colorful cut-out details tops, creating volumes and adding weight to upper part of the silhouettes.



What a better way to start the day than with Phillip Lim's soft and gentle approach of fashion. No music making the walls shake but a pleasant piano soundtrack which accompanied the models dressed in soft and roomy pants which were shaped at ankle-length, crisped crepe de soie shirts and leather handbags. We loved the mixed check-print pattern round neck jumper worn with matching shorts, high white socks and white sandals, as well as the industrial-looking deep-sea blue overall.



Damir Doma wanted to ' get out of the box' for his SS15 presentation, and the designer decided to invite his guests to his house, where an exhibition gathering his latest designs and a screening of a film shot by Carlotta Manaigo in a Parisian abandoned warehouse were showed. Outfits the designer is well-known for were exposed on hanging mannequins in the pure and luminous white space of his 8th arrondissement apartment, among which industrial narrow pants, ripped-looking cotton shirts and abstract-print scarves. Observing both the symmetry and irregularities of nature brought the designer to creating effortlessly elegant and understated pieces in cotton and silk devoré which featured laser cutouts along with flowers and butterflies-inspired prints.




Blue is a color cherished by Issey Miyake, and with the beach and exotic resorts inspirations of this SS15 show, the excuse was perfect to give the warm color even more space. Fauna prints were designed in collaboration with the Bloom Association, which fights for our environment's protection, and appeared on sheer shirts, pleated pants and even silky structured kimono-ish trench coats which seemed to make the smiling models happy, and the audience delighted by the fresh breeze the designer added to his collection through the use of modern fabrics among which abaca and pineapple yarns on dynamic sporty silhouettes.



The wardrobe presented by Kolor this morning at the Palais de Tokyo was audaciously successful and ranged from easy-to-wear linen and cotton relaxed jackets and matching pants, to colorfully-striped oversized neoprene jumpers. All the looks were teamed with sneakers and deconstructed sandals which featured red, green and blue stripes (not quite like Raf Simon's lighting shoes showed yesterday but quite in the same direction). Key pieces included quilted blue jackets, sky print t-shirts worn over mesh neon tops as well as asymmetrically collaged jumpers.



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